Vitamin C is essential for collagen formation and thus to keep young skin and organs. When applied to the skin, vitamin C boosts photoprotection and decreases hyperpigmentation. But that requires the penetration and action of L-ascorbic acid inside the skin. Learn how to optimize your vitamin C storage and a strategy to maximize skin penetration that works!
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Hi! A few months ago, I ordered some Korean skincare products and received a Vitamin C Mask as a gift with my order.
I know how beneficial is a good, stable topical vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) for the skin. Especially when the sun shines brighter!
I’ve used skincare products with vitamin C sometimes. However, I didn’t see an evident improvement in my skin. Perhaps I wasn’t super-consistent with it (meaning months of persistent use).
Thus, it was such a surprise when I tried the Vitamin C Mask gift one night and noticed a significant decrease in the hyperpigmentation of my face the morning after. Wow!
I’ll tell you why it works so well by the end of the article. Don’t miss that simple and sleek approach! I’ve been using that mask ever since (about three months ago) every week.
Before, I want to show you what you can expect from topical vitamin C (the ascorbic acid in your skincare products) and oral vitamin C (what you intake with your foods). And how to optimize your vitamin C.
Oral vitamin C: anti-aging benefits
It’s no secret that you need a good daily intake of vitamin C (present in many fruits and vegetables) to maintain optimal collagen throughout your body and skin (find more on that in the article about collagen I wrote two years ago).
That’s a fundamental anti-aging strategy.
Without the vitamin C that arrives in the skin through the blood after ingesting vitamin C-rich foods, there’s no collagen synthesis.
And not enough quality vitamin C in your diet equals non-quality collagen.
Moreover, vitamin C decreases collagen degradation by enzymes called MMPs (which sun exposure activates in the skin, for instance).
So, vitamin C is crucial to keep the dermal Extra-Cellular Matrix in top shape (which is made primarily of collagen, sits deep inside the skin, gives you plumpness, and avoids wrinkles).
Topical vitamin C: anti-oxidant, photo-protective, and depigmenting benefits
Anti-oxidant
The epidermis (the superficial layer of the skin) also uses a ton of vitamin C to defend itself against oxidative stress (free radicals produced by sunlight, pollution, or smoking, for example). And thus prevent damage to its biological structures (DNA, proteins, lipids…).
Proof of this is the epidermis stores high amounts of vitamin C. However, to counteract those external aggressors (for instance, ultraviolet light) takes up a decent part of that storage (and can even deplete it).
Thus, applying vitamin C over the skin can be highly advantageous: it upgrades the epidermal reserves.
That summarizes the added anti-oxidant benefits of topical vitamin C.
Photo-protective
The photo-protective role of vitamin C also stems from that anti-oxidant action.
When vitamin C neutralizes free radicals in the epidermis:
· It diminishes damage to the DNA and thus helps reduce the chances of developing skin cancer in the future*
[*Only if you have good ultraviolet light exposure habits, like using sunscreen and avoiding excessive sun exposure].
· It reduces the UV-induced suppression of the immune system: It prevents the reduction of protective immune cells in the epidermis (called CD1a Langerhans cells) upon UV-light exposure.
Depigmenting
Vitamin C interacts with copper ions. Thus, it inhibits the action of tyrosinase (the main enzyme implicated in melanin production in the skin).
Hence, vitamin C helps treat skin hyperpigmentation (like melasma or dark spots developed upon sun exposure).
The Vitamin C Mask
It’s the Real Vitamin Brightening Care Mask from the brand Some By Mi (see the packaging on the images below, with the ingredients on the back side).
These are 3 key features that make this mask effective:
1· An optimal amount of stabilized vitamin C in a competent formulation.
The mask comes in a single-use opaque envelope, free of air or light. That ensures the stability of the pure vitamin C included (ascorbic acid). It isn’t in a container for multiple uses (that you open day after day).
The formulation also contains vitamin E: on one hand, it supports the stability of vitamin C.
On the other hand, both vitamins (C + E) have a synergistic anti-oxidant and photo-protective action: Vitamin C replenishes the reserves of vitamin E in the skin. Therefore, together they have a more potent effect.
Besides, the formulation includes various humectants (like glycerin) and soothing ingredients (like allantoin). It leaves the skin feeling fresh and hydrated, I love it!
The thing I least enjoy is that it contains fragrance. But it’s mild (I like it). And I haven’t experienced any adverse events while using the mask.
2 · The single-use opaque packaging that supports ascorbic acid stability (as I told you before).
3 · Physical occlusion (The cherry on the cake!)
You apply the mask (a biocellulose sheet drenched in the ascorbic acid-containing formula) and leave it over your face for 10-20 minutes (I leave it for 20 minutes).
An active ingredient can get up to 1000 times more potent under physical occlusion.
I bet that happens here: there’s a higher depigmenting effect due to the occlusion. That’s why I notice a significant reduction in skin hyperpigmentation and an overall brightening effect overnight.
I’ve got melasma on the cheeks and hyperpigmentation around the eyes. I use this mask one night a week. For me, that’s fine. I apply exfoliating acids, retinal, tranexamic acid, or arbutin on other nights in the week. So that’s enough!
By using it only once a week, I don’t get any vitamin C-derived staining of the skin surface (or the pores).
I guess maybe two nights per week would be fine. It’ll depend on what other active ingredients you use in your skincare routine throughout the week.
I notice a very mild tingling on the skin while the mask is on. But that’s normal when you apply pure vitamin C, especially under physical occlusion.
I wasn’t a fan of topical vitamin C products (due to their quick oxidation and inactivation). So I’m glad I’ve found this mask. Now I can apply vitamin C in my own way (the one that works best for my skin).
What products with vitamin C do you use? Would you like to try a mask like this? Tell me in the comments section below!
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Enjoy the summer. And until next time!
María
For your reference:
Topical vitamin C and the skin: mechanisms of action and clinical applications. Firas Al-Niaimi, Nicole Yi Zhen Chiang, J Clin Aesthet Dermatol., 2017 Jul 10 (7): 14-17.
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